OVI KENNELS-Helpful Breeding Tips for Pit Bulls-Breeding Tips

How to give CPR to a newborn puppy

If a puppy is born and is not breathing, follow the cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) directions outlined below.
Have one person contact your veterinarian for help.

1) Clear the airway. Hold the puppy's head downward to allow gravity to help drain fluid from the mouth,
throat, and lungs. Use a suction bulb to remove any fluid from the airway.

2) Give two or three little puffs of air into the puppy's mouth and nose. In order to do this, your mouth
needs to close around the puppy's mouth and nose. Do not give large breaths, as the puppy's lungs
can be easily damaged. Be aware that some diseases such as Brucellosis may result in weak or dead
puppies and may be transmitted to humans through contact with the puppy or fluids.

3) Check for a heartbeat; feel the chest wall between your fingers or use a stethoscope. If no heartbeat is
found, compress the chest in the area right at the back of the bent elbow. This is the approximate
location of the heart. Press the chest between the thumb and forefinger. Compress quickly. Remember
a newborn puppy's normal heart rate is 120-180+ beats per minute.

Every 15-20 seconds, give another couple puffs of air.

Each minute check for a heartbeat/breathing. If the heart is beating slowly, stimulate the puppy by rubbing it roughly
(but carefully) with a towel, turning it over in your hands, or holding it by its scruff. This puppy needs stimulation and
may need you to give it a few breaths of air in order for it to live. Continue to work with this puppy for 20 minutes to
see if it can be saved.

If the heart is not beating, continue the CPR for about 5 minutes. If the puppy is not alive and active by then, it is
unlikely the puppy will be saved.

Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc

Preparing Your Whelping Kit
Car
Have your car ready in case you have to make a quick trip to the vet's office. Ideally, you'll have someone to drive
while you sit with the bitch. Take some towels with you because it is very common for the bitch to start delivering with
the motion of the car. You should protect your car's carpeting or upholstery with a sheet or blanket that can be
washed. Make sure the car is gassed up and ready to go. If you need to make the trip, you don't want to have to
delay for things like that. If you don't have someone to help with driving, make sure you have a large crate to safely
contain the bitch and any puppies that are born on the trip.

Whelping Box
A box with sides large enough for the bitch to stretch out comfortably. She and the pups will live in the box for the
first few weeks. The whelping box should have guard rails (also called pig rails) extending from the sides to protect
the puppies from their mother rolling over on them. The size of the box will depend on the size of your dog.

Newspapers
Keep a good supply of newspapers on hand to line the whelping box during the actual whelping. As the papers
become messy, you can just put a new layer down and clean the whole thing up when the whelping is over.

Trash Can & Paper Towels
Keep a trash can & paper towels on hand for use during the whelping and while the pups are growing up. Trust me
puppies are messy!

Incubator Box
You'll need a smaller box on hand to put the puppies in when Mom is delivering another puppy. You don't want the
pups to get cold so line it with a towel and keep it near a heat source or put a heating pad under the towel. A clean
laundry basket works well for this, and is easy to carry when you need to take the pups to the vet for their first
checkup.

Sharp Safety Scissors
For cutting the umbilical cord.

Quick Stop Powder
To stop bleeding, if there is any, after cutting umbilical cord. available at your vet.

Betadine or Iodine
For cleaning umbilical cord end after cut.

Hemostat forceps
For clamping off the umbilical cord prior to cutting it. You can use two and tear the cord as an alternative to cutting
it. This helps inhibit bleeding. All utensils must be sterilized

Dental Floss
For tying off the umbilical cord after cutting it.

Surgical Gloves
Use if you have to help deliver the puppies.

Digital Thermometer
For checking the bitch's temperature in the day's before her due date. Normal temperature is 104 degrees and the
hours before the pups are born her temperature drops to 99 degrees this means she is about to have the puppies.

Bulb Syringe (the thing you use to suck out baby boogers)
For helping clear out puppies who are born with problems.

Flashlight
Puppies always seem to come in the middle of the night and if you need to let your bitch go outside, you'll need to
keep a close eye on her. A good strong flashlight will make that easier.

Leash and flat buckle collar
Same reason as above. If you take her out on a leash, she's less likely to disappear into a dark corner and leave a
puppy there without your knowledge.

Clock
For timing the whelping and the time between puppies.

Notebook
For recording details. The puppy sheets mentioned in the record keeping sheet will work as well.

Food Scale
For weighing the puppies at birth and daily thereafter.

Microwave Heat Pad
These chewproof pads are heated in the microwave for 5-7 minutes and stay warm for approximately 12 hours.
Since they don't use electricity, they are much safer than the old options of heating lamps or heating pads. One
brand name for these is Snuggle Safe Heat Pad. You can also use a heating pad if you dont have nothing else it's
better than nothing

Fan
If the weather is very hot, you should keep a fan on hand. This is more for the mother than the pups. Don't set the
fan up to blow directly on the pups but rather to move the air across the top of the whelping box. If the mother is
panting a lot in the whelping box once she's finished and has rested, set the fan up so that she can cool down and
be comfortable with the puppies.

Whelping Box Pads or Blankets
While the pups are still in the whelping box, you'll need to keep a blanket or pad in their box. This pad will need to be
changed twice a day or more, depending on how well the dam cleans up after the pups. A piece of fleece with a
towel sewn to the back the same size as the whelping box makes a great pad. They can be washed and bleached to
keep them clean. Having four on hand will keep you from having to do continuous laundry. Don't put these pads in
the whelping box until the whelping is over.

Whelping the Litter
Well, it's show time! Your bitch is ready and, hopefully, so are you! The information below is for a normal whelping. If
your experience deviates much from this description, then you should immediately contact your vet. Delaying
seeking help could endanger the puppies and/or your bitch. This is definitely a time to remember to be "better safe
than sorry."

On day 58 after the first breeding, you'll want to start taking your bitch's temperature three times a day. A bitch's
temperature will drop from around 101.4 to 99 degrees Fahrenheit or below a few hours before she is ready to
whelp. A fluctuation in temperature is very normal, what you are looking for is a dramatic drop to below 99F. The
temperature drop is the best indicator of imminent whelping. Other signs of imminent whelping are restlessness,
discomfort, licking and looking at vulva. The bitch may refuse food prior to whelping as well. She will probably pant
heavily.

These are all signs that whelping is imminent. Call your veterinarian and let them know that the whelping is
beginning so that they will be ready to answer any questions or give advice if you have any problems. The bitch will
start pushing and straining at some point and may start digging at the bedding. She'll pant heavily between
contractions. The contractions should be visible in the muscles along her back, assuming you can see her back
muscles through her coat. You'll see them start at the top of her body and move down.

If labor continues an hour or so without producing a puppy, let the bitch go outside and walk around. This can help
the labor progress. Also, the urge to push can feel, to the bitch, as if she has to defecate. A well-trained bitch will not
want to break house training and will fight the urge to push, delaying labor. If the bitch is willing to go outdoors, keep
a close eye on her. If its dark, take a flashlight. A maiden bitch, in particular, may not know what to do with a new
puppy and may abandon it.

If labor continues for more than three hours without producing a puppy, call your vet! You will probably need to take
the bitch into the vet.

Assuming labor continues normally, the contractions will come faster and the bitch will start pushing seriously. The
water sac will appear, probably break, and then the puppy will be delivered shortly. The placenta may or may not be
ready to be delivered at this point. You can gently pull on the cord to see if it will come but you should never pull on
the puppy to check. You may pull the cord off the puppy and risk an umbilical hernia.

The bitch may want to eat the placentas. Opinions vary about whether or not this is a good idea. Some people think
it's good nutrition for the bitch when she's exerting great effort. Others feel that the bitch will get diarrhea from eating
them. Some breeders compromise by letting the bitch eat one and then keeping them away from her. Whatever you
do, you want to make sure that you have a placenta for each puppy born. If the bitch should retain a placenta, she
is at risk of having a serious uterine infection.

If you want to do to take over from the bitch at this point, you'll need to clear the water sac away from the puppy's
nose and mouth first using a bulb syringe. Hold the puppy upside down to help drain fluid and mucus from its nose
and throat. Rub the puppy very vigorously -- even roughly -- with a dry, clean towel until the puppy squeaks. This
rubbing will both clean the puppy and stimulate it to start breathing.

Many people allow the bitch to clean the puppy and chew off the umbilical cord. Others worry that the bitch may
chew the cord off too close to the puppy resulting in an umbilical hernia and choose to deal with this themselves just
to be safe. If you choose to do the task yourself, you'll want to cut the cord about 1" away from the body and tie it
with plain dental floss. Dip the tip and the floss in Betadine solution (or another disinfectant such as iodine). It will dry
up and drop off in a day or so.

Once the pup is breathing and clean, whether you did it or the dam did it, you'll want to check the puppy out
carefully, weigh and measure the pup, check for abnormalities such as cleft palate, and identify the puppy in some
way. Rickrack ribbon works very well. Measure and cut a piece large enough to tie loosely around the puppy's neck.
This is only necessary if your puppies are very similar. Other ways to mark the puppies include clipping bits of their
fur on different parts of their bodies or marking them with nail polish.

If the bitch is having a break between puppies, you should let the puppy nurse. The colostrom (milk produced in the
first 24 hours) is extremely important for the puppies. It carries immunities that protect the puppies from infection.
The puppy's nursing will also stimulate the bitch's contractions allowing her labor to progress. Take a chance to rest
and relax while you can. Don't worry, however, if you can't get the puppies on the dam right away. They can go
several hours without getting milk with no problem. Once labor starts up again, move the puppies into to the
incubator box for safety while the dam is distracted.

Very often there will be a longish break between puppies about half way through. You can take the bitch outside,
although she may not want to leave the puppies (you should encourage her!). Again, you'll want to keep a close eye
on her to make sure she doesn't deliver a puppy out there and not know what to do with it.

The puppies can come as quickly as 15 minutes apart or as long as an hour apart. If the bitch goes more than an
hour and you are think there are more puppies, call your vet! There may be a puppy stuck and you'll want to ensure
that you get it out as soon as possible.

When your bitch is finished whelping, you'll notice her calm down. Her breathing will slow and the contractions will
stop. You should take the bitch and her puppies to the vet within the next four or five hours if at all possible. Don't
go more than 24 hours without having them checked out. If the bitch has a retained puppy or placenta, she is at risk
for serious infection. If any of the puppies have cleft palates or other deformities, you need to know as soon as
possible. Such puppies are usually humanely euthanized by your vet as they are generally not likely to live.

There are a variety of problems you may run into. Again, keep your vet and/or emergency vet's phone number
handy in case you run into a situation you aren't prepared for. If you have any question about what is happening or
what you should do next, don't hesitate to call the vet. You really are dealing with life or death situations and it's
much better to be safe than sorry.

Some breeders suggest keeping some drugs on hand to help the bitch should she have trouble delivering. You can
discuss this with your vet but I don't recommend this practice. This drug is very strong and can cause serious
complications if the problem is a large puppy blocking the birth canal. A better option is to keep in contact with your
vet and take your bitch in if necessary.

There are some alternative medications that many breeders are using and recommending now that have similar
results without the risk of injury. I am currently not using these drugs either all natural for me and hand delivered.
For a bitch whose labor is slowing down, there is a homeopathic treatment called Caulophyllum (Blue Cohash). This
should be administered when the bitch is in a non-productive labor. Do not use it unless the bitch is clearly in labor.
For puppies in distress, you can try a product called Bach's Rescue Remedy. It is a good gentle "kick start" for pups
in trouble. You would just put a couple of drops on the puppies tongue. The nice thing about these remedies is that
they can't be overused. They are extremely gentle. Detractors from homeopathic or alternative measures will tell you
that these treatments won't do anything, good or bad. (For more information on this topic, see the Resource section
below. There are a couple of books on Natural Health.)

The first problem you might see is a bitch that starts labor but doesn't proceed to delivering. First you should try
walking her around outside to see if that helps her relax enough to start pushing. If that doesn't work in about 15
minutes, you can try a technique called "feathering." Put on surgical gloves and apply a small amount of lubricant
such as KY Jelly. Gently, gently, gently insert one finger into the bitch's vulva and gently tickle -- or feather -- her
along the top of her vagina. This can help stimulate stronger contractions. If this doesn't produce a quick result or
the bitch is acting tired at all, call your vet. You will probably be making a trip in to get some expert care.

The vet will probably x-ray your bitch to determine how many puppies are waiting to be born and whether or not you
are dealing with a malpresentation (puppy trying to go out the wrong way). If all looks well, the vet will probably give
your bitch injections of calcium and/or pituitary oxitocin. These injections often stimulate strong contractions and get
the labor moving along. If they don't work, or if you are dealing with an overly large puppy or a malpresentation, the
vet will probably recommend a cesarian section. C-sections should not be taken lightly but they are often
unavoidable. They are very expensive and put the life of the mother and puppies at great risk. You should decide at
this time whether or not you want the vet to spay your bitch during the C-section. Sometimes, there won't be any
choice. If the uterus is badly damaged or infected, they will have to spay your bitch at this time. Once you reach the
point of a c-section, many of the decisions will be taken out of your hands.

Discussing this possibility with your vet ahead of time is a good idea so you can find out what procedures they use
and how amenable they are to your helping to revive the puppies as they are delivered. Many vets will not allow you
into their examination area, however, some are grateful for the additional hands in reviving puppies. One of the
biggest problems with a C-section is the anesthesia given the bitch. Because the puppies are still attached to her
system, they will, inevitably, be anesthetized as well. It is really important that your vet take this into consideration
when anesthetizing the bitch. Many vets will 'mask her down" and this is the recommended procedure. This means
that the vet administers isoflourene gas to start her off, rather than administering a drug like Valium-Ketamine to put
her to sleep before starting the gas. If your bitch is high-strung and/or aggressive, the vet will probably insist on
doing the Valium-Ketamine option, but if your bitch is placid and biddable, you should ask that they mask her down.
The gas is much easier on the puppies systems and they will be much easier to revive. The recovery of your bitch
will be difficult after a c-section. It is major abdominal surgery and puts a huge strain on her system. However, if all
goes well, she will still be able to care for and nurse her litter. Your vet will give you detailed instructions for her care.
They will often prescribe antibiotics to help her avoid infection. You should be careful administering any antibiotics
as they will generally cause both the dam and the pups to have diarrhea.

A situation when you won't have time to get to the vet is when you can't get a puppy breathing. Every puppy should
be rubbed vigorously until they squeak and start moving around. Some of them are born with a squeak and don't
need any additional help but more often than we'd like, puppies need extra help. If the vigorous rubbing doesn't
work, you'll want to act quickly. The fastest way to get fluid out of the puppy's throat and nose is to hold the puppy
firmly and raise it above your head and swing it quickly down between your legs BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO
LOOSELY HOLD THE PUPPY THEY ARE VERY FRAIGLIE KEEP A SURE GRIP AND DONT DO IT CONSTANTLY.
The centrifugal force can clear the nose and throat. Make sure that you support the puppy's head and neck while
you do this so its delicate neck is not damaged. If this doesn't work you can try using a bulb syringe to take out any
fluid in the throat. While you are working on the pup, keep rubbing it vigorously and make sure it stays warm.
Hopefully you'll be rewarded with that gasp of life and a healthy puppy.

At some point, however, you may have to give up on a puppy. This is an extremely difficult decision but if you've
worked on the puppy for 20 minutes without response, you are unlikely to revive the puppy. Consult with your
veterinarian about what to do with the dead puppy. Sadly, this isn't an uncommon event in a whelping.

Again, there is no shame in calling your vet for help. If you are unsure what to do or are presented with a situation
you or your bitch don't understand. Get professional help!

Once the whelping is over, you'll be ready to let the new family settle down and get some well-deserved rest. And
you'll need that rest yourself. Make sure the bitch has relieved herself and gotten some fluids. Give her a sponge
bath so she is clean and fresh. Feeding her chicken broth with brown rice is a good first meal after whelping as it will
be gentle on her stomach but give her plenty of fluid and nutrition.

A first-time mother may have some serious doubts about these puppies, particularly if the delivery was painful for
her. This is another time where obedience training comes in handy. It is extremely important that you get the
puppies nursing both for their sake and hers. Put the bitch on a down-stay, get in the whelping box with her to
reassure her, and put the puppies on her. If she growls or complains, just climb in the bitch, make her lay down and
keep her head away from the puppies. She's going to be tired and won't fight you too much -- besides, she's used to
obeying your commands, right? The obvious benefit here is that the pups will get that necessary colostrum which will
provide them with their mother's immunities. The added benefit, however, is that the nursing triggers the release of
hormones into her bloodstream. These hormones help promote the bitch's mothering instincts. The more the
puppies nurse, the more loving the mother will feel towards them. (It's true of humans as well.) Hopefully, the bitch
will settle down and feel content as the puppies nurse. You should still supervise her with the puppies until you are
sure she has fully accepted them and her new role.

POSIBLE NEW BORN PUPPY PROBLEMS

METRITIS (INFLAMMATION OF THE UTERUS)
Signs of this condition are as follows:
-fever
-foul-smelling vaginal discharge
-listlessness
-loss of appetite
-no interest in the puppies
-decreased milk production
If these signs are noted, usually in the first day or two postpartum, a veterinarian should be consulted. Your dog
may have retained a placenta or have suffered some trauma during delivery. Animals who have required assistance
with delivery are often predisposed to metritis.

ECLAMPSIA
This condition results when the bitch has trouble supporting the calcium demand of lactation. Calcium
supplementation predisposes a bitch to this condition. Usually affected animals are small dogs. They demonstrate:

-nervousness and restlessness

-no interest in the pups

-stiff, painful gait

This progresses to:

-muscle spasms

-inability to stand

-fever

-seizures

This condition generally occurs in the first three weeks of lactation and a veterinarian should be consulted
immediately.

Eclampsia (convulsions not associated with other cerebral conditions such as epilepsy or cerebral hemorrhage)
can occur in the dog as a result of lactation. The greater the quantity of milk produced, the more likely it is that
eclampsia will occur. When calcium is lost in the milk faster than it is absorbed, or than it can be mobilized from the
skeletal system, hypocalcemia results. Signs are muscle fasciculations, tetany, and death. The treatment is to slowly
(10-15 min) administer a calcium solution intravenously. As you treat, the amplitude of heart sounds will increase,
and the heart rate will decrease. If the heart rate increases, or becomes arrhythmic immediately stop calcium
administration.

A bitch with a large litter two to four weeks into lactation is especially susceptible to eclampsia. Some would suggest
giving extra Ca prior to the time it is needed. However, this does not help, because excess Ca intake decreases the
efficiency of Ca absorption from the intestine, inhibits parathyroid hormone secretion, and stimulates thyrocalcitonin
secretion. These changes decrease the ability of the dog to mobilize Ca from the bone, when additional Ca is
needed; it takes 1 to 3 weeks to reverse the effects. Of course, this is not fast enough, and hypocalcemia and
eclampsia occur. Giving Ca when it is needed, during the first week through the fourth or fifth week of lactation, may
be helpful; 500 mg of calcium carbonate (about one Tums, the antacid you take for upset stomach) per 5 kg of body
weight per day, but only for the bitch in which eclampsia has previously occurred. The best treatment is to get the
puppies off the dam as quickly as possible, either onto solid food or a bitch's milk replacer.

MASTITIS (INFLAMMATION OF THE BREASTS)
Normal nursing glands are soft and enlarged. Diseased glands are red, hard, and painful. In general, the bitch does
not act sick; the disease is confined to the mammary tissue. The bitch may be sore and discourage the pups from
nursing; however, it is important to keep the pups nursing the affected glands. This is not harmful to the puppies
and helps flush out the infected material. Hot packing may be helpful.

Most dogs are excellent mothers and problems are few. The basic rule is to seek veterinary care if she seems to feel
sick of if she ceases to care for her young. Puppies nurse until they are about six weeks old and then may be
adopted by new homes.

NUTRITION DURING LACTATION
This lactating bitch provides an example of the nutritional stresses associated with lactation. The characteristics of
the litter which determine the level of nutritional stress on the mother are: the size of the puppies, the number of
puppies in the litter, and their age. The peak energy needs of the bitch occur when puppies are 3 to 4 weeks old. If
a bitch is nursing more than 4 to 5 puppies she should receive a diet containing 28 to 30% protein and 20 to 25%
fat during heavy lactation.

Proper vitamins and trace minerals also must be provided. Supplementation may be necessary, but a proper
calcium:phosphorus ratio should be carefully maintained.

These are some observations on feeding the lactating bitch. She should be fed 1.5 times maintenance for the first
week, 2 times maintenance for the second, and 2 to 3 times maintenance amounts for the third week of lactation.
Ontko and Phillips noted little or no loss of weight when lactating bitches were fed a basal diet of 427 calories per
100 gm. of ration, but a weight loss occurred when bitches nursing four or more puppies were fed a diet containing
310 calories per 100 gm. Therefore, increasing the caloric density of the diet assures improved lactation. Care must
be exercised in adding fat or a diet of higher caloric density. Problems in low birth weights and high death rates
occur in litters which have only an increased fat percentage. Fat must be balanced by protein increases, so that
17% protein should balance with 7.5% fat, 25% protein should balance with 20% fat, and 29% protein should
balance with 30% fat to assure that increased caloric density will not induce protein deficiency. A protein intake of 25
to 50% of the diet on a dry weight basis appears optimal. A commercial maintenance diet should have 2 to 4%
animal protein added, such as liver. Increases of fat also make the diet more palatable.

The digestive capacity of the pet must be considered when increasing the ration of a companion animal during
lactation. If the quantity of food required exceeds the amount she can eat in one feeding, then divide that into three
or four feedings per day.

Most puppies are weaned at 6 to 7 weeks of age. This appears to be the optimum time from both the nutritional and
behavioral standpoints. At this age they are sufficiently adapted to their species yet young enough so that they
adapt well to people and, therefore, become good pets.

It is helpful to restrict the food intake of the bitch before and during weaning to prevent excessive distension of the
mammary glands and discomfort after weaning, particularly for good milk-producing bitches with large litters. This
may be accomplished by separating the bitch from the litter during the day and withholding all food the day before
weaning, but reuniting the bitch and pups that night and removing the food from the pups. Then gradually increase
the amount fed the bitch after the pups are completely removed so that by several days after weaning she is
receiving the amount needed for maintenance.

PYOMETRA
The symptoms of pyometra may not be obvious if there is no vaginal discharge (locked pyometra). This is the
riskiest type, because the fluid will not drain spontaneously, for three reasons:
- The cervix is closed.
- Progesterone saturation maintains the uterus in a relaxed state as if it were pregnant.
- The horizontal position of the uterine horns does not facilitate spontaneous drainage.
Clinically speaking, pyometra often causes lethargy, increased thirst (polydipsia) and increased urine output
(polyuria). This can be complicated by kidney dysfunction due to the toxins produced. The veterinarian can confirm
the diagnosis by means of a vaginal smear, abdominal palpation, blood samples, X-rays or ultrasound.
A considerable amount of pus (several litres!) may accumulate.
Medical treatment relies on certain antibiotics and hormones (prostaglandins) that cause the uterus to contract and
the cervix to open, thus facilitating drainage.
Unfortunately, this treatment is restricted to bitches that can tolerate it (depending on the seriousness of the
disease) and whose owners wish to salvage their ability to breed. In other cases, surgery (removal of the uterus and
the pus it contains) is usually indicated to give the best chance for a rapid and permanent recovery.

Go here to our online page for PYOMETRA

PSEUDOPREGNANCY
Turner and Gomez, in their 1934 work on the mammary gland of the dog described a condition called "complete
pseudopregnancy." In the dog this condition extends for a period comparable to normal pregnancy and the
development of the mammary gland includes the growth phase during the first half and the gradual initiation of
lactation during the second half of the false pregnancy. Therefore, normal secretory activity is not dependent either
upon the foetus or foetal membranes. The uterus is apparently not necessary either, as a hysterectomized female
was given hormones and began the glandular growth phase.

Pseudopregnancy can be very helpful to the breeder who needs a foster mother to nurse orphaned, abandoned, or
extra puppies. On the other hand, the home owner with a single, female dog who is not allowed to mate during
estrus will frequently have to contend with unwanted milk dripping. Veterinarians can administer bromocriptine to
"dry up" the milk. Behaviourists note nesting behaviour and even straining movements which simulate parturition
about nine weeks after estrus. The dog owner is counselled to discourage nesting behaviour, not to let the dog
"nurse" any rolled-up socks she has stolen, and provide interesting outside activities.

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